Joe Coons
First this month, let me plug the Recreational Boating Association of Washington. This is the only group that represents all boaters in our state before the state legislature and various state bureaucracies. They're the ones that have kept government from charging us more than the present one-half percent annual license fee, even though, as everyone knows, all boaters are rich and should pay lots more in taxes! The dues are only $15 per year. If you have any kind or size or registered boat, you should be a member. Send your check to RBAW, 2033 6th Avenue, Suite 804, Seattle WA 98121-2526. If you have questions, call (206) 441-6020.
Some years ago, I had a "flasher" style depth sounder that failed. Each time I turned it on, it would give a single weak flash, turn a little, then die, the entire sequence taking about a second. I checked the power supply by disconnecting the unit and putting a voltmeter across the line. Fine! So I took the sounder to my favorite radio shop, and had them check it. "Works great", they said. "Check the power", they said.
"But I checked the power", I said.
"This time, check the power with the unit connected", they said.
Well, my Dad used to say "Listen to the experts", so I re-measured the power across the leads to the sounder when it was connected. With it "off", it measured 12.6 volts. With it "on", there was zero! I couldn't believe it!
Turned out the circuit breaker that fed the sounder only had "dirty" switch contacts: flip it a few times, and all worked fine.
I always remember that lesson now about boat wiring: salt air and moisture just doesn't mix well for any length of time with anything electrical. And so, over this winter, when I noticed my stern light hgad pooped out, and I found the bulb was good, and I found voltage at the socket, I realized I ought to check the voltage again at the socket with the bulb in. I use a couple of hat pins to penetrate the wires, then put my meter across the pins (making sure the pins don't touch each other). That time, bulb out: 12.6 volts. Bulb in: 0.
The problem was a corroded terminal on the ground lead down in the bilge. I replaced the terminal making sure I had new, clean, bare wire to attach it to, and put shrink tubing over it and reconnected it for a more permanent fix. Works great!
These sagas remind me to remind you that one of the most important tools to have on your boat is a durable digital voltmeter. These are amazingly flexible tools, and a meter that would have cost $250 in 1980 now costs under $50. You really should have one! My Radio Shack model has an automatic shutoff after five minutes to prevent me from inadvertently running down its battery.
And if your basic electrical theory is rusty, remember the wonderful book by Nigel Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual. This is a great book, well illustrated and sold everywhere, and if you have any kind of boat with an inboard, auxiliary, or stern drive engine, it's another must-have reference. Spouses: The meter and the book would be a great Fathers or Mothers Day present!
Have a great, safe boating month.
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