BOATING TIPS -- JUNE, 1997
Changing Oil like a Pro

Joe Coons

As I was changing the oil on my boat the other day, I realized how much I had learned from the pros about this process that nearly everyone must perform on every boat, power and sail. At the suggestion of some fellow boaters, I thought I'd review the steps to accomplish the job quickly, with minimum fuss and muss.

First, what you'll need:

• An oil filter wrench to fit each size of spin-on filter you have, available from any auto parts or tool store (get a good one!);
• A box of Zip-Lock bags, each large enough to hold an oil filter;
• A wrench the correct size for your crankcase drain plug, and a pan shallow enough to fit under your engine, or, better, a dipstick-tube oil drain pump and pail big enough for your oil; or even better, a oil drain pump permanently fitted to your crankcase drain plug and pail;
• A roll of paper towels (you'll only need a few, if the job is done right);
• New oil filter(s);
• The required supply of fresh, engine-builder-recommended oil.

Here's the process:

1. Run the engine(s) until warmed up to at least 130 degrees;
2. Drain the oil using the pump, or into the pan;
3. Replace the plug or close the valve;
4. Loosen the oil filter on the engine until it can be turned by hand (but don't take it off yet!);
5. Put a Zip Lock bag around the filter, and with it in the bag, unscrew it the rest of the way. Keep it upright so the oil in it doesn't spill over. As soon as it is off, use a towel to catch drips from the filter's mounting, then seal the zip lock, and keeping the filter upright, put it into the new filter's box;
6. Using your finger, wet the O-ring atop the new filter with fresh, clean oil;
7. Spin on the new filter until just finger-tip tight, then follow the manufacturer's recommendation as to tightening with the wrench (usually 1/2 to 3/4 turn after the O-ring first touches);
8. Re-fill the crankcase with the new oil, remembering to "add a quart for the filter" (see your engine handbook);
9. Wipe up any drips, then start the engine and let it run a few minutes, checking to be sure oil pressure comes up and there are no oil leaks around the filter or drain plugs, etc.;
10. Dispose of the oil properly at the Port's oil dump.

Use the same Zip-Lock technique to change fuel filters. If your engine is Diesel, you'll save lots of trouble if you keep a gallon or two of Diesel fuel, clean and fresh from the pump, on your boat in a proper container. Turn off the Diesel fuel supply to your engine just before removing the old filter. Then, after it is off, fill the new filter with oil from your supply before installing it! Then, turn on the fuel supply again. That way, you won't have to re-bleed the engine fuel supply system.

Using this "clean hands" technique will make you feel like a real pro, keep your engine room cleaner, and help the environment.

Enjoy the season, and boat safely . . .

All rights reserved. For permission to copy, contact Joe Coons.

Last updated 8/20/97 by SCR