Nice easy cruise after a walkabout to "West Beach" at Pruth Harbor. We went through woods past neat Indian mask carved into a tree, then found a huge, white, pristine beach where a kayaking couple were camped. We enjoyed chatting with them, then returned to the boat and headed out. Easy run, during which we saw enormous barge pulled by seagoing tug bound for Alaska, as well as numerous ocean-liner-type cruise ships. Buoys in Seaforth Channel were confusing, noted them on charts, had some swells just before turning into Oliver Cove. Oliver Cove is a nice little harbor, with good protection yet plenty of light. Joe got some of the salt off, polished the spotlight and antenna bases.

Rainy day, but mostly drizzle. We saw some beautiful waterfalls, had a visit from a small school of porpoises in our bow wave, saw some nice vistas. Grover had a water pump bearing freeze up and disintegrate, so he'll run on one engine as far as Ketchikan before getting a replacement sent in. Butedale is an abandoned cannery, awful that there are so many such places, and the docks are all gone and the bottom is very foul with cable and other junk. Anchoring was not easy! We wound up with an anchor set (fouled on cable, we learned on Sunday), and a stern line to a nearby piling. Dismal place.

Well, the anchor held, but we re-secured it during the night---it got too tight, then at 0630 is got too slack and we were nearly into the piling. But the trip today featured whales about 1/4 mile away, spouting (Orcas) and a lot more porpoises with Judy getting them on video for five or 10 minutes. This afternoon, we happened upon AWAKENING, with Glenn and Lynn Sorenson, and BOHAMA IV, with Bill and Nancy Hammond. At lovely Klewnugget, we had a party in the pouring rain for 4 from BOHAMA, 2 from AWAKENING, 2 from MARICORK, 2 from TOUCAN, and 2 from SKYLARK. It was fun, and we all started to get to know the new faces. Crab pots out -- no luck yet.

Another misty, drizzly day, but still less rain than yesterday. Following tides gave us 10.5kn speeds most of the way. Discovered Bob Allard (FAWN BLUFF) and Dave Kreiner (SEA WAGON) along route. Dave is Rotarian from Sandy Point and was running right in front of us, Bob is an old Harbor Airlines pilot. Our boat running fine, but there is a little antifreeze drip from port engine (it stopped on its own two days later). Lots of current getting into the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club, but we got a decent spot next to the Indian fisheries dock. Downtown for laundry and groceries, dinner with Lynn and Glenn Sorenson at "Smiley's". Grover got two full pots full of crabs off the end of the dock, plus another partial pot, kept 18, gave away 12! Judy cooked ours right away after I split and cleaned them, and they're in the fridge.

Visited railroad museum, visitors' center, had cocktails on Bohama.

Sunshine at last! Left at about 1400 to get more water under us in Venn Passage, then enjoyed smooth cruising all the way to this magnificent, sheltered inlet, the last harbor in Canada before returning to Americs, in Alaska. Before leaving I oiled the port rail, added oil to the engines (93 hours since change, first addition!). No special sights today except for our alone-ness as we travel. Eagles and crabs in Prince Rupert were amazing! Put our shrimp pot out tonight for first time ever, nearly lost it!

ALASKA AT LAST! Awoke around 0430 to see and video-record a spectacular, tranquil sunrise, then woke again at 0610 to see everyone gone except the Vetters. Took off right away --- shrimp pot empty --- and had an absolutely tranquil trip across Dixon Entrance to Ketchikan with even any swells! Bright, glorious sunshine. Just before Thomas Basin at Ketchikan, we hit a log with port prop, big bang, but only moderate vibration over 1200 RPM. Fortunately, there was a prop shop at the head of the dock, and a tide grid nearby. Oiled the other rail, had Ligons and Vetters for cocktails, Judy made cinnamon rolls for tomorrow breakfast, and everyone promised to come at 0600 to stand on side of boat as tide goes out.

This was the tide grid day! Exciting process, tide dropped 40 inches in one hour! Boat was dry at 0740, afloat at 1440, and the work was done quickly. Picked up props at 1600, they were pitched wrong the whole time! They look great. We couldn't have been luckier than to have that happen right here. Back at dock, thoroughly washed boat.

Spent day on boat projects and sightseeing and shopping.

Got up, and after calling Dave, Cathy and Dee Billingsley left for fuel dock. Diesel squirted out of vent, got all over Joe, his clothes, and his face. Ugh! Judy spent first 90 minutes underway cleaning boat and clothes. Awful start. Drizzly day, but easy cruising up the Behm Canal to this quiet bay. We got a forest service buoy, invited sailboat ATLANTEAN to raft up with us, nice people, but quiet --- stayed to themselves. AWAKENING took the other side of us. Took the dinghy and Lynn and Glenn to shore, saw lovely wildflowers, but trail to hot springs was impassable after about a mile, blocked by stream which had left its banks. Lynn and Glenn then came aboard for wine and snacks.

Hauled the crab pot, got 2 little spider crabs. Shrimp pot had about 20 shrimp, our first ever! We had a great night's sleep, and after hauling pots and coffee with Lynn and Glenn, set out for this great anchorage/moorage. The cruising was great, good weather, calm seas, lovely settings, and this little bay has a wonderful state dock although the deck is a little tarry. We took a walk on a wonderfully-maintained and improved trail around a lake near the dock, then back in time for TOUCAN and MARICORK to tie up. Cocktails on the dock with much joviality, and fish-stories. Grover and Cindy's new guests are Pete and Wendy Van Zandt. Then dinner and bedtime.

Took the dinghy into the lake at Loring, had fun going up and down through the rapids! Didn't see anything, but rest of gang did when walking before we went, seeing a bear! Then what seemed like a long run to Canoe Passage, a little choppy, but we were visited by a big school of Doll's Porpoises near our destination, lots of excitement! Lot of trouble and >>tension<< anchoring, and setting shrimp pot; it cast a pall over the evening. Anchored at a waterfall. Judy saw an eagle's nest on shore, and watching mother eagle protect her little one was fun.

Retrieved the traps: Crabs = 0, Shrimp = 13 + a bottom fish! Dick Vetter had snagged his pot, and watching him try to get it loose was an experience! It was sacrificed. Easy run on Judy's course planning to Zimovia Straits, along the way saw three or four orca fishing along the shore. Narrows in Zimovia Straits were interesting, but not difficult at all. It was very warm (for Alaska) today, I even had my shirt off for a while! Heard from another boat we were expecting, DIXSEA'S DREAM, they're ahead of us by a day at Petersburg. On arrival at Wrangell, harbormaster David Mork and assistant Shelly were most cordial and helpful, only cost $3.21 for first night, and that was for power! Ron Henry, a fisherman on MISS TAMMY gave us nine dozen big prawns! And we had already given some of his largess to Vetters! Visited this little town, saw some Indian petroglyphs with the Toucan crew, but they left (from loading dock) to anchor out. Joe serviced the seawater strainers. All in order. We used the bug screens for the first time, they worked great!

After another trip to the store for fishing supplies, motored to a bay just NE of Wrangell for fishing, crabbing, shrimping. Trolled 1000-1145, zip. Crabs, zip. 10 little shrimp, threw 'em back. Then, after lunch at anchor, took off across Sumner Strait to Wrangell Narrows and Petersburg. Great fun run! Narrows were very interesting, seas were smooth, sunny and warm day. We both got sunburns. Dinner at the swankest restaurant in Petersburg, in Scow Bay. Good salmon! Then to boat to bed.

Judy did laundry and food shopping, Joe replaced the CB (turned out it was OK), took some oil stains (from Ketchikan fueling fiasco) off hull, and filled water tanks. Then slow cruise out of Petersburg to big, beautiful Thomas Bay. We dinghied to near the glacial river at the north end, but not very pleasant, although we did see an interesting seal and some artic terns. Then back to the boat for cocktails with Ligons and Vetters rafted up with us. Delicious fresh snapper (from Vetters) dinner. Pleasant, relaxed, day. Crab pot is out following instructions of crabber in Petersburg: 20-30', near fresh water stream.

After a rocky night (Joe got up at 0230 to adjust lines, slap, slap, slap) we slept until 0800. Joe got crab pot with two HUGE crab! After breakfast, we hiked up the Canyon Creek Trail and then over to the beach and USFS cabin. That was a long trail, not too easy, but interesting. Judy got a dinghy lesson and went off alone to video our scenery along the Canyon Creek. Joe gave Dick Vetter a docking lesson --- he was a good student! Then set out on five-plus-hour run to this lovely cove. Lot of swells after we rounded Cape Fanshaw, then a following sea. Rafted to Howard and Vi Zebell's KATRYNA, another 43' Tolly! Dinner of shrimp cocktail, followed by huge, excellent crab salad, without the salad! Then Milky Way pieces --- decadent! That was a gastonomic heaven for Joe. Danced to Eddy Duchin, then to bed!

Leaving Entrance Island, we hauled the shrimp pot, zip. Nice run with only 3 or 4 miles visibility to Sanford Cove in Endicott Arm off Holkham Bay. There, MARICORK anchored and Vetters came aboard for long round-trip cruise to Dawes Glacier. Lots of icebergs and pupping seals. Icebergs were huge, and all different shapes and sizes. Neat trip. Judy made sticky buns, we shared with Ligons and guests, and Vetters. They were delighted. Dinner was fresh salmon from Ligons and stuffed baked potatoes from Costco! Great, with music from Roger Williams, Liberace, and Floyd Cramer. Cleaned decks a little --- and to bed.

What a day! Sunny and bright until 1630, then overcast. Started with a beach walk and photos with Ligons and Van Zandts, then onto boat picking up Vetters and Sorensons at anchorage on Tracy Arm side of bay. Cruised up Tracy Arm, even more spectacular granite walls, waterfalls, and calving glaciers. When you think you're close, you're not, they're so huge! Saw seals, beautiful mountain tops, and lots of icebergs. Spectacular! Then back to windy anchorage for drinks, snacks, and pasta dinner. Onan impeller failed again tonight!

A changing day, rain, sun, cloudy, broken, scattered, each in turn and again. Tried fishing, no luck, decided it's not my bag, at least this year! Crab pot is out in the water, however! A nice harbor with some nice boats and folks here. MOLLY BEE from Friday Harbor, rented by Anita Niefert. Gary Coy was the charterer. APLYSIA, a 42 Westsail (the name is a genus of Sea Slug) with Bob and Stehanie Harvey, beginning a world cruise. KATRYNA (again), and ESCAPE, with some nice Juneau people, especially the lady whom Judy chatted with. Dinner and bridge on MARICORK. Nice, early evening. Judy baked a delicious apple pie for dessert.

A little drizzle here and there, but it started well with an interesting beach walk through the cannery ruins at Taku Harbor. Then, I hauled 1 very large and 1 medium crab! While Judy cooked them, I gossiped with Gary Coy (MOLLY BEE) and visited Howard and Vi's KATRYNA. Then underway for slow and lovely cruise to Juneau. Docked there with TOUCAN, APLYSIA, MARICORK, and AWAKENING ... BOHAMA IV joined us later on. Shopping, then beer and smoked salmon at the famous "Red Dog" Saloon, then to see exciting Patriot Game movie. Then, apple pie with Grover and Cindy, then Stefan Grappelle and Marian McPartland on FM until we watched a cruise ship depart the docks at 11:30 and to bed.

Shopped, found an impeller, did boat errands, etc.

Up at 0600, under way at 0640. Fuel dock on east side of Gastineau Channel closed, so went around to Auke Bay to top tanks. On the way around Douglas Island we had about 30 minutes of real fog and the radar was fantastic. Both Judy and I have gotten a lot of confidence in it! After fueling, back under way up the Lynn Canal to Skagway. Lots of pretty sights, especially glacier-loaded valleys, pretty islands (some with lighthouses)(, a lovely artist's home, and good weather. Then, much to our surprise, we beat the ferry by about five minutes into the pleasant harbor! We ran at the higher throttle for the last three hours to get there quicker. Then, drinks in Vetter's room at hotel, then back to boat to bed. Great, fun day!

Took the train ride, went to the "Follies", shopped, saw a tourist movie about Skagway during World War II, had fun!

Very windy last night and today, cruise ship cancelled visit here and ship already in stayed an extra twelve hours! So we stayed, too. We walked to cemetery, had pancakes, etc. Then, when it seemed to have let up, we headed into it, right on the bow. Other than a lot of spray, ride was okay except about 15 minutes when we took it broadside going into Haines. But then, a snug harbor, good berth, washed down the boat, walked uptown to find friends --- didn't, so rented a video ("White Fang") and ate crab cocktails, salmon salad sandwiches, drank white wine, and had frozen yogurt desserts --- YUM. Turned out we had seen it after all. And so to bed.

This was another beautiful, calm day, perfect for the run back to Juneau from Haines! Temperatures around 65-70 degrees. Perfect ride, lots of fishing boats and nets to make it interesting. Moored on the main ramp at Auke Bay, surprisingly quiet, but no power. Took a bus to "Intermediate Dock" in Juneau proper, then after cocktails on Bohama, bussed to Fred Meyer's for food shopping (2215-2315) then bus to boat, ready to go! Dinner was at Juneau's MacDonalds!

More easy cruising --- this is amazing good luck as far as the weather goes! Changed the Onan oil before leaving, and once under way, loafed along into Funter, a lovely bay. Stopped at state float, but it was creosote-laden, and full of rather noisy boats from Maple Bay. So we left the dock and anchored in "Coot Cove" on the west side. Quiet night --- MariCork joined us --- and we had excellent salmon from the barbecue.

Joe up early to deliver sticky buns to Vetters, then we did nothing for the rest of the day. Read, checked pot -- no crabs -- drinks on MariCork, dinner was a stir fry.

No crabs in pot, up at 0630. Decided at last minute to try for early entry to Glacier Bay. We were able to change reservations, nice lady (Bobbi) at USFS Ranger Station. Nice lodge, too, but pricey. Called Commodore Dick Johnson, got update on "harrassment" problem. Talked to Bellingham Yacht Sales, Bandel boat delivered yesterday, he loves it! Weather today was windy, rough turning corner into Bartlett Cove. Had trouble anchoring, so Judy took over and did very well! Judy baked bread. Upon arrival here, washed down boat --- it needed it!

First thing, checked pot, 1 small crab. Then to shore to dump garbage. Back to boat, had trouble with dinghy painter fouled in prop, Joe went swimming in Glacier Bay! Then underway at last with relaxed cruise past some puffins, then after anchoring we watched two bears on the shore for a long time. Judy put the crab pot out. Nice day after all, even with the dinghy hassle!

Happy Anniversary to us! Up at 0700, checked pot, got 10 crab with 9 keepers! All ten were male, WOW! Judy cooked while I got boat ready. We ate on way to Muir Inlet off Glacier Bay, beautiful trip. Saw all stages of nature from glacial-barren to verdant hills and meadows. Muir Glacier was calving small pieces, we also saw McBride and Riggs glaciers. Many birds, got an iceberg in the ice chest for our return. Then to Blue Mouse Cove for overnight. Our anniversary dinner was a crab feast, cold, with cocktail sauce, wine, buns, and fig newtons!

Blue Mouse Cove anchorage was a little "lappy", and close to shore, so Joe was nervous all night and didn't sleep well, but after we survived the 0649 low tide, he slept like a log until 0800. Breakfast just before we got underway, then toured Reid Inlet, looking at Reid Glacier, then Johns Hopkins Glacier (the inlet was only open halfway, since seals were pupping and the park service wanted to protect them) then we went over to Marjorie Glacier to linger and watch the calving. Both of the park's ranger boats looked in on us, very nice and helpful people, we felt so privileged to be here! Then we went over to Russell Island, and tried to anchor in a nice cove, but couldn't get secure and Joe was especially wary after Blue Mouse Cove experience. We did, however, see an eagle family on the rocks at Russell Island enjoying a fresh fish! So we went back to Reid Inlet, and had a lovely anchorage for the night. Just as we arrived there, Reid calved a big iceberg with a giant bang!

We had a fantastic beach walk to Reid Glacier where we had the spectacular calving last night. We walked almost right up to it, perhaps 200 feet away! We also saw oystercatchers feigning "nesting" in order to distract us. After we got under way, we went to Tidal Inlet, and saw a pair of humpback whales which we watched for 20 or 30 minutes. Then we saw our first mountain goats, eventually seeing a total of 19! AWAKENING joined us there, and we rafted together in the inlet and drifted while we had lunch, which Judy prepared and served. Glenn and Lynn are interesting people. During lunch we did have a fly invasion, caused, we believe, by the warm weather. Then we motored to Fingers Bay for cocktails on our boat with Ligons and Grover's sister Liz and brother-in-law Charlie, followed by a sumptuous anniversary dinner served to us on Toucan. Great day!

Breakfast included Judy's sticky buns, with Grover, Cindy, Liz, Charlie, Joe and Judy on Skylark at 0730. First I had changed engine zincs. Then underway about 30 minutes when we had fine whale show by humpbacks, including breaching! Then, when we got underway after watching for 30 minutes, more whales, both humpbacks and Orcas. After leaving Glacier Bay, we had high winds on our bow in Icy Strait, a little uncomfortable, and between the winds and currents we were making only five knots, even at 2100! Then, right after going through South Inian Passage, it all died down ... amazing! Here at Elfin Cove we got fuel, and Judy made great fish chowder and herb bread and apple pie and salad for everyone. Another entry to end: Great Day!

Joe cleaned and scrubbed and worked on little projects, while Judy baked, and we toured Elfin Cove. This was after it became clear that weather would prohibit the "outside route" south to Sitka. Meanwhile, Vetters took off early to Juneau to get generator fixed.

We were awakened early by a fishing boat taking out a charter party at 0430. Walked around Elfin Cove again, shooting video. Said farewell to TOUCAN and BOHAMA IV. Easy run today, with no seas and warm weather. Saw lots of whales, including pod of 10 or 12 Orca, plus lots of humpbacks. Tenekee Springs turned out to be an odd, idiosyncratic, tumbledown town, but we had a nice walk there, and Judy checked out the bathhouse which was, at the time, inhabited by an enormous lady in the dressing area! Tied out at the breakwater, saw MISS TAMMY, from Seattle again. Put out a shrimp pot near the harbor.

Today's run was long, but pleasant! Only two shrimp in our trap, what a downer! From Tenakee to Peril Strait, through Deadman's Reach and Sergious Narrows and Whitestone Narrows to Sitka. Doesn't that sound ominous? It wasn't! While going through Sergious Narrows, we came upon a USCG Buoy Tender, and at the same time a ferry passed us going north. Quite a moment, but it all turned out fine. In Sitka, we wound up tied to the breakwater, and dinghied in. Saw George and Dixie Borza on DIXSEA'S DREAM. Had dinner at excellent Channel Club restaurant, with huge baskets of boiled shrimp. We were taken there by neat lady who we were to see the next day, too. Wonderful welcome.

Spent the day at Sitka, with shopping in the morning including getting a Russian miniature box, visited the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, the Bishop's House, the totem park, had lunch in a restaurant next to the Russian-American Trading Company in MacDonalds Mall, and had dinner at a big salmon roast. We were going to stay up for the fireworks, but we were all walked out! While sitting on a bench, met Dale and Mary Anne Steeg of JEKELE, nice folks. This was a high exercise, interesting day. What has become of Maricork?

Today was a laundry and food shopping day.

We got up early at Sitka, and were at the gas docks by 0645, giving me time to wash the boat and fill the water tanks. Sitka is FULL of fishing boats! Got fuel, then had good cruising back through Peril Strait and to Chatham Straits, saw several more whales. Then it started getting rougher, so we came in here. Lovely place! Walked to the warm springs (a galvanized tub with a pipe, but clean and it looked like fun although we didn't partake, and then to the fresh water lake up above the settlement. Then we visited the big falls at the inlet's head. We're at a nice dock, where we've met, once again, KATRYNA and DIXSEA'S DREAM. Also met nice folks aboard 60' Hatteras SNO KIM ROSE, he is trucking company owner from Sitka. There was also a big 90' Westship moored here. Talked through the marine operator with MARICORK, they'll meet us on Wednesday.

Decided to leave Baranoff since we walked last night, to take advantage of morning calm on Chatham Straits, and it paid off with only minor one foot swell or so. Chapin Bay was absolutely lovely, we had it all to ourselves, and we saw a bear on a fairly distant shore, and then another bear with her cub nearer to us. We quietly dinghied over and took a good video of them, although the flies were somewhat worse. Then Judy baked while I puttered, and we both read. Watched a video and then to bed.

We took showers, had a leisurely breakfast, and then had an easy cruise across Frederick Sound to this lovely bay. Joined up with MARICORK and DIXSEA'S DREAM at anchor, got our pots out. Drizzly, overcast weather but certainly not bad. Had a nice cocktail hour on DIXSEA'S DREAM and heard George's story about his salvaging of the boat, he is amazing! First pot haul, about a dozen shrimp. More to come, we hope!

Up early at 0600. Judy pulled the pots, about one bug crab and around three dozen small shrimp and two big spot prawns all of which she cooked at once. Then underway, hustling to keep up with Dick and George. We rushed so as to get to Petersburg at high tide so that Dick could get onto the tide grid. Found a small hole in MARICORK's bottom next to port propeller tunnel, and patched with epoxy (it later came out again). Judy and I had a great sandwich at a "health food" store, had pizza for dinner with the group. Judy shopped, I cleaned boat, fenders, watermaker filter, etc. Good day, met neat people Dr. Norman Thompson and wife Gail who know our friend Josh Lederberg at Rockefeller University and practices at Mt. Sinai. Judy bought two generous pounds of prawns which she cleaned and cooked.

We woke up at 0715, had showers, filled water tank, and got underway. Absolutely calm seas, enjoying the Wrangell Narrows again. Then into Eastern Passage via Sumner Strait to Anan Cove. It was full of anchored boats, so we went east about four miles to this spot, turned out fine. We dinghied after supper back around to Anan Bay to visit the bear observatory, and although it was getting late and we were nervous, we did see a grizzly pretty close up as he caught a fish, cleaned it, and ate it. Exciting! If he saw us, he paid no attention. Beautiful moon tonight, which Judy captured on video.

After a good night's sleep, we pulled the trap and got a good crab. Then underway. It was smooth early on to Lemesiere Point, then quite rough, so we followed MARICORK (though not by their mistaken, improper route) into this little safe harbor. Had a nice chat with a thirty-ish fisherman mending nets to grand opera, walked about, fiddled with little projects. Quite rainy here some of the time. We both got a good night's sleep.

We woke up early, and headed out into Chatham Strait. Much better! Kept our speed up until nearly in Tongass Narrows for MARICORK's sake, he does like to go faster than us! Then a slow run to the fuel dock and the Ketchikan Yacht Club's docks. Lots of rain! Enjoyed town lunch at Westward Hotel, saw Whoopi Goldberg in "Sister Act". Joe changed engine oil, Judy baked bread, etc.

Woke up, decided to get underway, filled water tank while Judy showered. Had a nice cruise to this lovely setting, getting secured at a buoy. Invited a sailboat, "WINDAGO", to raft up with us, we're such nice guys! They turned out to be very pleasant people, Steve and Cathy Stav from Federal Way. Met a very nice ranger on our way back from incomplete hike up trail to Punchbowl Lake, too steep, Judy too worried about bears. Had Stavs over for cocktails, then we had supper and to bed. Lovely place!

We went slow and easy touring Rudyard Bay. Saw a black bear which was eating bushes down by the water, amazing that Judy spotted him! He was really a "hillside" bear! Lovely scenery all through Misty Fjords National Monument. Then, leaving Rudyard Bay, we headed south with a few rain showers to rendezvous again with MARICORK. Judy baked buns and bread, and we even played gin rummy as we ambled along! Our Foggy Bay anchorage was interesting to get into, but very quiet and secure.

We woke up at 0400, dozed a little, then got up at 0505, and as agreed with Vetters were under way at 0530. Of course, it was flat and warm all the way, we could have slept in! We got to Prince Rupert too early for current, so we drifted outside the harbor mouth for a while. Our time has changed back to Pacific! No problem with customs (she came to boat), moored very expertly in tight, short slip at Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club, which is jammed! Then to laundromat, met JEKELE couple there, so we had dinner with them at a Greek restaurant, quite good! Then we visited Vetters for a little while with interesting friends of theirs who had come in a 32' Bayliner, LORELEI. And then to bed.

Got up at 0700, washed decks and stainless, emptied trash, filled water tank, got fuel (it was litres, not tenths) and had an easy cruise to this inlet we passed up for Klewnuggit on way up. Wind came up for last two hours in Grenville Channel, but merely an annoyance. After anchoring, we dinghied over to the falls and watched the salmon, tried the trail but it wasn't worth the hassle, then we visited JEKELE, nice little Irwin trawler! While we were there for cocktails, I dumped my drink all over their settee. Judy made pizza for dinner, excellent!

Didn't get up until 0800. I vacuumed boat, then cleaned carpet, it looks great. Caught a good crab. Went again to falls to find trail, and did!

After the two nights at Lowe Inlet, we were ready to go, but we had enjoyed our stay! Today's easy cruise was in sun and moderate winds. We moored to dock here, decided it was too bouncy and would be too noisy, so we moved to mooring buoy. We changed to swimming togs and went to the bath house: NEAT! We had a great bath, then back to the boat for a relaxing afternoon. In evening, over to MARICORK for drinks and crabmeat cocktails, but with all their canvas, it was hot and bugs were very annoying, so we were pretty sweaty upon return. We watched a video, and to bed. I had a hard time sleeping: hot and creepy-crawley.

Awoke at 0600, decided to have another bath at the bathhouse, it was just as much fun as yesterday! What a refreshing way to start the day! We had an easy cruise in moderate winds to this anchorage, enjoyed an eagle in her nest, and other tranquilities. Played backgammon and read.

Calm seas, easy running. Near Oliver Cove we watched three groups of Orcas browsing along the shorelines for about 45 minutes. Closest they've come to us, seemed oblivious of our boat. Oliver Cove as tranquil as on the way up. Put out the crab pot, then had Canadian Fish & Wildlife people come and check for our licenses, and then MARICORK's. But they were nice, and patient while Dick searched and then, finally, Mary Jane found it in her purse! Our anchorage was quiet and secure.

Left early to avoid seas due to high NW winds predicted. Instead, calm seas, easy passage. Absolutely uneventful! I've started my harmonica self-lessons. Judy read, then baked sandwich buns. Safety Cove is a little breezy, but easy anchoring, though busy.

We woke up at 0515. Listened to weather, decided to chance Queen Charlotte Strait crossing. We encountered pretty substantial seas following of our port rear, and had some periods of pretty intense rolling, but other than that discomfort, had a pretty easy time of it. MARICORK ducked into this nice bay, so we followed, and put out our anchor and stern line. We were moored near NANCY ANN which had, among other things, a seaplane on its swim step! Then we had lunch, including some bloody marys to celebrate our return to "southern" B.C. waters.

Up at 0630, both took showers! Had breakfast, and had stern line off and dinghy secured in time for 0830 getaway. Beautiful Day. Perfect weather for Johnstone Strait, and timed the run to get us through Race Passage one hour before slack giving us a 2.0 knot boost. It got so hot we put up Bimini! Many more boats here than in Alaska, but still, not too many.

Up at 0545 to meet slack at Seymour Narrows. Easy, warm ride all the way. Stayed at Discovery Harbor Marina, nice slip with water, power. Fueled first at the brand new Esso fuel barge, moved here, met Stan Palmer, owner of barge. Excellent facility! Then to laundromat and supermarket. Then, I scrubbed the boat outside while Judy re-stowed stuff preparatory to having Gordon and Sandy come aboard in a few days. Great day's work, boat looks good.

Up late at 0830, decided to enjoy following sea in Straits of Georgia for a change and had pretty good ride all the way. Warm sun and a 6 or 10 knot wind from North, West, and even East. One foot chop, small swell. Upon entering Newcastle Bay, saw SERENDIPITY, Steve and Meredith Ross, went over and visited them for a drink. Lent them Desolation Sound chart book.

Hiked around the island, exploring this provincial park. Took a picnic, met a nice Belgian young woman who was working as a tour guide for the summer; she was a school administrator in the other seasons. Joe took a path that got pretty steep, scared Judy, after we had relaxed on a blanket for a while. Saw the "Nanaimo Sandstone" quarry, and later, machine with which they cut pulp grinding stones, fascinating!

Woke up early to wakes and engines. Visited for a minute with MARICORK, they came into harbor yesterday, and saw SERENDIPITY off early to Desolation Sound. Then through Dodd Narrows to Ganges. Tranquil, sunny, pleasant, uneventful. At Ganges I cleaned rust off stanchions, rinsed the boat, and did other little tasks. Judy cleaned the galley and forward stateroom, and made some sandwich buns. Gordon dropped by to say hello, and we met some interesting folks from Spokane. We went to the Tides Inn for lamb and black bean casseroles, too spicy and too much! Caesar salad was good, however. Watched TV (Olympics) and to bed.

With Gordon & Sandy English aboard. Cruised to Princess Margaret Park here, took a long hike (but every sign said it was only "20 minutes"). Then had tacos for dinner. Boat anchored in this nice little bay with 60' rode and stern line. In spite of Gordon's assurances there would be few, we had a lot of ferry wakes. But we all still slept pretty well.

With Gordon & Sandy. Gorgeous day! Went to Sidney Spit, and with much caution due to minus tide, got a buoy and then took nice three or four mile hike. Saw several pileated woodpeckers and deer. Then to Port Sidney Marina, outstanding! Best marina we've ever been to! All of us relaxed, ate dinner ashore after an afternoon looking around, then walked downtown and visited bookshop. Saw the KRUNCHBIRD here, remembering them from our first Desolation Sound trip with 36' Uniflite SKYLARK I.

With Gordon & Sandy. Left Port Sidney "escorted" by five military ships in running currents, but calm after we got through Speiden Channel. Nice run, customs at Friday Harbor was routine. Gordon and I shopped a little, got yogurt, had a pleasant day with ladies.

Rented a car and went sightseeing, including lunch at Roche Harbor and picnic supper at "America Camp", where we then saw a cute skit by a group of civil war buffs. Fun day!

We hummed along to Reid Harbor. Dave and Gina were there to greet us on arrival, great to see them after such a long absence! Then about 1400 the Aylens arrived on JOIE DE VIVRE with Gene and Karen Terrell, and finally, around 1845, David and Evelyn Heaps on RASCAL FAIR. We spent afternoon fixing genset water pump and outboard on Aylen's boat. In the evening, great cocktail party with snacks, then soup and rolls for dinner. Wonderful fun with a very homogeneous crowd!

More of same! Took walk to cemetery. Gordon and I fiddled with boat while Judy and Sandy took another hike. Cocktails on Heaps boat, dinner on ours. Warm, tranquil, great companionship!

Ran to customs, checked in, then to this favorite anchorage. After dinner, we went ashore for somemores, only to find burning ban, so we hiked a little, went back to boat, watched a video and to bed.

Easy run to Ganges in clear weather to drop them off, then to Bellingham. Saw porpoises, even Bellingham Bay was smooth! Unloaded from 1600-1730, then put boat in house, showered aboard, and went to BYC and TCBY for supper and sundaes! On Thursday, we ate breakfast aboard boat (no food at home) and continued unloading. Pretty good to be home, but we could have stayed out!