CRUISING THE NORTHWEST

Top of Document
Cruising Tips
Bellingham Area Destinations
Destinations in nearby BC
Northern Nights Cruise
Southern Lights Cruise

(Revised to 4/1/94)

This guide was prepared as a service to area boaters by the BELLINGHAM YACHT CLUB, and is offered without charge. It is typical of the member-developed services to boaters offered by the Club, the focal point of boating activities for the waters of Northwestern Washington.

The following pages offer tips and possible itineraries for longer cruises, plus comments on some of the local harbors and delightful destinations that are so abundant throughout our region.

If you decide to follow up on any of these ideas, study your charts carefully. Prudent planning for your trip, including a review of the tide and current tables and the appropriate charts is always the responsibility of the skipper!

Cruising Tips

• After shower use, squeegee or wipe shower walls and floor dry. Your boat will be fresher.
• Too little refrigerator? Freeze plastic bottles filled with water, and use them in your picnic cooler for more capacity. Rotate frozen ones with those that have thawed.
• If your head uses fresh water, save up flushes until necessary.
• Don't let the sun or wind wake you! Have a way to cover hatches to keep light out of your eyes, and furl and cover or lower your flags every night.
• You'll usually enjoy yourself more if you limit the time travelling each day. Once you're in your cruising grounds, allow time for shore walks, reading, watching the birds and seals.
• Carry an old pair of shoes, or buy some "reef runners" to wear when you're on the beach or in the water, protecting your feet without ruining your regular boat shoes.
• Put some extra sweaters and jackets on your boat in case a guest needs one. It's easy to get cooler, but it can be hard to get warm, and being cold can ruin a guest's trip.
• Don't make a big deal about menus. A bowl of soup is great out on the water, and sandwiches are always welcome. Give your mate some free time, too!
• If you've got a mooring, and you see someone desperate, let them raft up if sea conditions permit! You may meet someone new.
• Always use current charts when you're in unfamiliar water. We live in a boater's Utopia, but there are hazards. Don't hit them!
• Always look out for logs and nets. They are everywhere!
• If you see a fishing boat, and don't see its net, slow down and steer toward the boat. The fisherman will direct you, or at least you'll see the net trailing off one end. Assume nothing about nets!
• Be thoughtful. Don't use generators before 8:00AM or after 10:00PM at the most, less if possible. Keep early departures quiet.
• Watch Your Wake! In narrow passages (Peavine Pass, Pole Pass, Swinomish Slough, etc.) run at no-wake speed! Reduce wake, too, when passing anchored boats, or small fishing boats, or kayakers. In bays, or approaching anchorages, slow down.
• Emergency Contacts. Leave an itinerary with friends, and in a true emergency the Coast Guard will call you. Your friends can contact the Coast Guard station nearest you; there are U.S. stations in Seattle, Port Angeles, and Bellingham and in Canada in Vancouver, Victoria, and Comox. Call information. Monitor VHF Channel 16 for emergency calls, and check the weather broadcasts daily! (Use Comox weather in all waters north of the Gulf Islands.) Canada CG will put a message on the end of the weather broadcasts if they have "traffic" (messages) for you.
• Customs. Clear Canada Customs at Bedwell Harbor. You cannot anchor or touch land, or raft with any other vessel, in Canadian waters, until you clear Canada Customs. You cannot bring in pitted fruits (i.e., peaches) or apples or potatoes. One fifth of liquor, bottle of wine, or case of beer is allowed for each adult passenger. Absolutely no firearms or drugs. Get clearance to stay an extra few days in case you're delayed! Like the U.S., only the captain can get off the boat until cleared. Have birth certificate, and letter of permission, notarized for any children on board if both parents are not with you. When you return to the U.S., you must check in by phone or in person at an entry point (Roche H., Friday H., Bellingham). Be sure to save a record of your clearance numbers.
• If going north to Desolation Sound:
  • Conserve water. Fresh water is limited in the Desolation Sound area except at Nanaimo, Lund, Egmont, Campbell River, and Powell River, for in smaller ports it comes from small wells and isn't always crystal-clear (although it is supposedly tested). We conserve by swimming for baths (at P.L. Inlet, Tenedos Bay, Roscoe Bay, Pendrell Sound, Von Donop Inlet, Village Bay, etc.) and by careful use. We sometimes carry a half-dozen plastic gallon jugs just for tea and coffee water; we save ice water (by keeping our ice in Ziplock bags) and we frequently fill a five gallon pail at gas docks and keep it in the cockpit for miscellaneous boat/window washing, etc.
  • Conserve fuel. The reason to visit the North is the scenery and the tranquility, and Canada fuel is often $2.00 U.S./gallon. Run slower, and it lasts longer. Once you're North, you'll note the typical day's run is only an hour or two on the itinerary.
  • You may want a grill and mesh bag. Bring a grill for oysters, chickens, steaks, hotdogs, hamburgers, etc. A mesh bag like the ones that potatoes come in will keep your mussels and oysters and clams fresh. Hang it off your boat when anchored, put it in a pail with water when underway, and change the water every few hours.

Top of Document
Cruising Tips
Bellingham Area Destinations
Destinations in nearby BC
Northern Nights Cruise
Southern Lights Cruise

Destinations

None of the spots listed below are more than fifty miles from Bellingham; most are within 25!

Bellingham Area Destinations

Inati Bay This is the Bellingham Yacht Club's outstation, on the east side of Lummi Island, just south of Point Francis, open to any boater. Be cautious, and pass with the obstruction buoy at the mouth of the bay to starboard. This anchorage is well protected, and can accommodate about twelve boats if anchored separately, more if rafted. If the bay is busy, a shoreline is needed. Pit toilets, no dock, and two moorings. Good anchor holding. Early sunset here!

Chuckanut Bay South of Bellingham, a fine anchorage. Pass close to Clark's or Governor's Point: your chart will show obstructions extending either side of the islands in the bay's mouth. Good anchoring. The south end is particularly nice. No shorelines needed. In spring, look for gray whales browsing in the sand.

Sucia Island The most popular destination in the San Juans, north of mid-Orcas Island. There are a lot of buoys and a dock maintained by the State. Good anchoring. Sucia Islands are a marine park donated by the Yacht Clubs of Puget Sound. Fire rings, grills, tent sites, some water, pit toilets, etc. Check charts carefully for obstructions, although bays are pretty clear.

Matia Island A lovely little harbor, just east of Sucia. The bay has a narrow entry on the island's northwest corner and holds four boats, two at the dock and two at a buoy or two; if you fit, it's lovely. Pit toilets. A trail takes you around the island, through the woods. Good except with west or north winds.

Pelican Beach This is at the northeast end of Cypress Island, just below Eagle Cliff. The State has five buoys for mooring off the beach, with fire pits, tables, pit toilets, etc. Little protection from the weather, so make it meal/hike stop. There's a fine hike open July 15 - February 1 to Eagle Cliff, about 45 minutes, not too strenuous, for a great island vista. Other months Eagle Cliff is off limits, but hike to Duck Lake (easier) to see lots of eagles, ducks, etc.

Blind Bay & Shoal Bay These two bays are good anchorages. Blind Bay is on the south side of Harney Channel between East and West Sounds. Shoal Bay is on the north end of Lopez Island. Both bays are well protected except from the north. No facilities.

Olga on Orcas Island has a nice dock, and a nearby arts center with excellent casual lunch/dinner dining.

West Sound on Orcas Island has Orcas Island Yacht Club and County docks; tie up and go up to the little store for the bakery & deli.

Jones Island A favorite, Jones Island is between the West Side of Orcas Island and the north end of San Juan Island, between Spring Passage and San Juan Channel. The smallish bay on the northeast side is the best spot (watch the well-marked obstruction, keeping it on the left as you enter). There is a dock and several buoys. On the southwest side of the island there are some buoys, but you'll rock and roll because of passing traffic. On the island there are trails, beaches, pit toilets, and deer so tame they come up to you and eat from your hand! Try coming here through Harney Channel and Pole Pass, not as treacherous as it looks!

Reid Harbor & Prevost Harbor Another favorite, Reid Harbor is very well protected, on the southeast side of Stuart Island, north of San Juan Island. There is a dock, lots of buoys, good anchoring, and lots of room. There are good trails on the island, (and a long hike to Turn Point Lighthouse) with the usual complement of fire rings, tables, pit toilets, etc. Prevost Harbor is on the northwest side of Stuart Island, and is another excellent anchorage, especially in a southwesterly blow.

Fisherman's Bay on the northwest side of Lopez has a challenging, but interesting entry channel, and in the bay, good anchorage and moorage, and several restaurants. Enter at mid or high tide.

Friday Harbor, Roche Harbor, & La Conner These are "urban" destinations. Friday Harbor is a neat island community with plenty of visitor space except during the jazz festival (late July). Roche Harbor Resort has extensive moorages and several bays around the corner to the southwest. La Conner is a quaint little community, with somewhat crowded moorage (no anchoring) that is midway on a slough between Deception Pass and Samish Bay. Check your charts and have fun! All three have extensive shopping opportunities for boaters, sights to see, and good restaurants.

Top of Document
Cruising Tips
Bellingham Area Destinations
Destinations in nearby BC
Northern Nights Cruise
Southern Lights Cruise

Destinations in nearby BC

Bedwell Harbor on South Pender Island is a lovely spot; it's also the most convenient Canadian Customs check-in location. It has lots of moorage, a store, and restaurant. You can take the little channel through to North Pender's Port Browning for more moorings.

Ganges Harbor, on Saltspring Island, is a favorite port. Several marinas including government wharves, and excellent arts, crafts, and supply shopping in this community that is distinctly "arty".

Todd Inlet, off Brentwood Bay, off the Saanich Inlet around the Saanich Peninsula on Vancouver Island is a great spot, Todd Inlet, the "back door" to the famous, "must-see", Butchart Gardens. Get there early for mooring buoys, anchor carefully, use a shore line, and then enter the gardens through the "boaters only" gate.

Winter Cove, north end of Saturna Island. Although it only has modest east winds protection, this is one of the nicest anchorages. At the cove's S end is a provincial park, with picnic tables, fire pits, and a pleasant trail that loops around to a scenic inlet from the cove into the Straits of Georgia. When going in the cove, turn N from Plumper Sound directly toward the Samuel I. bay, then at the last moment turn right to go behind the mostly-visible string of reefs into Winter Cove.

Glenthorne Passage, on Prevost Island closest to Ganges Harbour on Saltspring Island. Enter this beautiful inlet at its northwest end, or at the opening halfway down where there is a red cabin. (There is also another opening even further south, but at low tide it's barely six feet wide!) Glenthorne provides excellent anchorages at its south end, protected well from all winds except strong northwesterlies. You may see numerous eagles, then in the morning a family of otters and a mink work the shorelines for food, yet you're but three miles from Ganges, the largest Gulf Island city!

Port Sidney Marina is the newest in the near Canadian waters. They offer a gorgeous facility, with numerous amenities including beautiful flowers, water, electricity, and TV cable at every slip, excellent showers, boutiques, restaurants, and only two blocks into town with an excellent bookstore for browsing. It's a 35-minute brisk walk to "The Latch", a fine dinner restaurant. (Put on your "dress whites"). Port Sidney is due West of Roche Harbor, around the North Side of Sidney Spit, just N of the municipal docks (not yet on the charts). Watch the entrance buoys, keeping the red marker on your North side as you enter. The harbor has Customs check in, excellent docks, etc. Contact them by phone or on Channel 68 for moorage reservations.

Top of Document
Cruising Tips
Bellingham Area Destinations
Destinations in nearby BC
Northern Nights Cruise
Southern Lights Cruise

Northern Nights Cruise

This cruise features visits to beautiful Desolation Sound and/or Princess Louisa Inlet, perhaps the single most-photographed boating spot in the world. This three-week itinerary is arranged so you can enjoy either two weeks of it. Fuel locations are marked with [F]; places with dock and moorages are [M]; often moorages are full so, call.

Two important notes:

• "Whiskey Golf": When you go north to Desolation Sound, you will have to pass near the Canadian Warning Area "Whiskey Golf" marked "WG" on charts, NE of Nanaimo. If the area is "active", it absolutely must be avoided. To get its status, when near it, call "Winchelsea Control" on channel 16 VHF.
• The Georgia Straits: The Straits, extending north from approximately the U.S. border to the entrances to Desolation Sound and Cape Mudge, is so long, it can really "blow up" with the wind and tides, generating substantial swell and waves. Most boaters go up north on the West Side, behind the sheltering Gulf Islands to Nanaimo (through Dodd Narrows near slack), leaving early in the morning to cross the Straits (avoiding Whiskey Golf) before the wind starts blowing. If the straits are not too rough in the afternoon when nearing Nanaimo, you can cross out of Porlier Pass in late afternoon; the crossing is only about 25-35 miles, depending on the route. Often, boaters will monitor VHF 16 or 68 to listen for boats crossing to get an on-the-scene weather advisory.

Day 1 Bellingham to Bedwell Harbor [M,F] for Canada Customs. Clear here for flexibility if the weather isn't great further up. After Bedwell Harbor, on to Nanaimo [M,F] if Straits are rough, or to Secret Cove [M,F] via Porlier Pass if the Straights are calm. If we go all this way, total distance: About 110 NM. Long day!

Day 2 To Harmony Islands or Egmont [M,F] or Start to Princess Louisa up Agamemnon Channel. The Harmony Islands are a lovely anchorage, an easy cruise from Secret Cove. If coming from Nanaimo (because of yesterday's weather), a longer run! You may want to go to Egmont to moor at either marina and take a walking trip (about two hours round trip, go at full flood or ebb tide) to view the amazing Sechelt Rapids. Or begin winding your way up the "Reaches" toward Princess Louisa. If your boat is salty, wash down at Egmont or Lund; other places water is scarce.

Day 3 Continue to Princess Louisa Inlet or Tenedos Bay via Lund [F-Lund & Campbell River are best fuel stops]. Today if going to P.L., you should reach Chatterbox Falls, (remember to go through Malibu Rapids at slack). Otherwise, go on to Tenedos Bay, mooring behind the north side island if possible. Swim at the bay's East End.

Day 4 Returning from P.L. or Roscoe Bay. If you went to P.L., you'll be on your way down the "reaches", aiming for overnight at the Harmony Islands or Egmont [M,F]. If you were at Tenedos, move on to Roscoe Bay, enter at mid or high tide to clear the bar. Great swimming in Black Lake, a ten-minute hike. Roscoe Bay is often crowded: use your shoreline on the stern. Or, go early to dock at Refuge Cove on the SW side of West Redonda Island, or Squirrel Cove (with fresh-baked cinnamon rolls) on east Cortes Island.

Day 5 Pendrell Sound. Here is some of the best swimming there is in the North, although it may be a little cool. The best spot, if you get there early enough, is over behind the little tiny island where the brook enters about 1.5 n.m. from the north end on the west side. Otherwise, anchor at the head.

Day 6 Walsh Cove. If you don't like oysters, mussels, or shrimp, you may not agree on this favorite spot. Anchor inside the cove, preferably stern to Gorges Island, and collect the low tide shellfish bounty. If lucky, a shrimper will come to sell fresh shrimp!

Day 7 Frances Bay via Pryce Channel and Raza Passage, or then on to Big Bay (M,F) via Calm Channel. Francis Bay is quiet; Big Bay is a resort with restaurant, fuel, and big boats. Can be noisy, so it may or may not be to your taste. On the way, go through the Rapids within 15-30 minutes of slack!

Day 8 Chameleon Harbor, or Hemming, Handfield or Thurston Bays. Up through Yuculta and Dent Rapids (go within 20 minutes of slack tide!) and then around the corner and south into Nodales Channel for your next overnight. Beautiful, quiet, uncrowded.

Day 9 Campbell River/Gowlland Harbor. Go south to Discovery Passage, through famous Seymour Narrows (within 15 minutes of slack current) to civilization! This city is a fine provisioning/fueling point. Cheapest fuel can be found by calling the area marine fueling stations from a pay phone; you can save over 15 cents/litre! There may be moorage available in C.R., especially at the new marina behind the new breakwater just north of the ferry slip. Best food shopping is at the "Overwaitea" store about five blocks from the new Marina. Take a cab back with your stuff unless you brought a cart. Liquor store in mall downtown; lots of good restaurants (try Charron's near McDonalds). Or, you might stay over at Gowlland Harbor (go around the north end of Gowlland Island) overnight for quiet, free anchorage. If you want a special treat, maybe the April Point Marina can take your moorage reservation; it's very plush, across from C.R. If you must end your trip in 13 days, skip now to day 16, and proceed in the morning to Telegraph Harbor via the West Side of the Georgia Straits.

Day 10 Von Donop Inlet. South around Cape Mudge, up north-northeast into Sutil Channel to Von Donop Inlet, a protected area for swimming and anchoring; go slowly through the narrows.

Day 11 Octopus Islands via Hole-in-the-Wall. Up Drew Passage and then into Calm Channel (see Day 7) to Hole-in-the-Wall, then through during slack to the Octopus Islands. Oysters and clams here!

Day 12 Village Bay overnight, or perhaps on to Drew Harbor at Rebecca Spit [M,F]. Village Bay has a fresh brook feeding it with some "tubs" for bathing. Drew Harbor has facilities including a good store near the marina and/or government docks.

Day 13 Teakerne Arm via Uganda Pass. Teakerne Arm has a good anchorage behind the island to the south of the entrance, and great swimming above the waterfall. On the way, Uganda Pass is fun. Perhaps you'd enjoy anchoring for lunch, going ashore at Shark Spit on the north end of Marina Island!

Day 14 Malaspina Inlet: Grace Harbour or Isabel Bay. Now, you can read charts and miss rocks, so make your last anchorage one of these bays as we prepare to go south. Good swimming (if the algae aren't "in bloom") at either location.

Day 15 Pender Harbor [F,M] via Lund [F]. One of BC's most famous harbors, anchor back in Hospital Bay. Or, do the Day 4, Day 3, and Day 2 itinerary now! Be ready for an early run tomorrow across the Straits!

Day 16 Telegraph Harbor. We'll cross over, going through Porlier Pass, south and around to Telegraph Harbor [M,F] on the West Side of Kuyper Island. The balance of your trip will mostly be in the Canadian Gulf Islands. The fishing around Porlier and Active Passes is reputed to be very, very good.

Day 17 Prevost Island or Todd Inlet/Butchart Gardens. Anchorages abound in James Bay, Annette Inlet, or on Galiano Island at Montague Harbor [F,M]. More landlubberly: head for Todd Inlet (see above) or Brentwood Bay, to dinghy to the Gardens.

Day 18 Bedwell Harbor or Reid Harbor after customs at Roche Harbor. Bedwell Harbor on South Pender Island is a very nice spot to explore, There's moorage and fuel! There are also buoys, in the park area, if you get there early, and good anchorages on the east and northeast side of the Harbor; use your shoreline. Also, try the little channel (at high tide) through to the North Pender Island! Otherwise, you might go through U.S. Customs at Roche Harbor, then double back a few miles to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island (see above).

Day 19 On your own! Ideas include Sucia, Friday Harbor for Customs (if you were at Bedwell last night), or even, if you're boated out, home to Bellingham.

Top of Document
Cruising Tips
Bellingham Area Destinations
Destinations in nearby BC
Northern Nights Cruise
Southern Lights Cruise

Southern Lights Cruise

This is an "urban/suburban" cruise, with almost all overnights at docks (space permitting). This cruise is designed for two weeks; we have arranged it so you should be able to join or leave it anytime. Water, fuel, and anchorages are all plentiful on this route.

Day 1 Bellingham to Oak Harbor. Entrance to the Harbor is to the extreme right of the marina, with guest moorage just inside the outer breakwater. The first three or four slips are free, and marked as such.

Day 2 To Poulsbo. Enroute, try a side trip to Coupeville in Penn Cove. There are interesting old homes and some good shops, but only a small amount of moorage, however. A long leg to Poulsbo, so for slower boats a good portion of the day will be spent underway. We go through Agate Pass and then by Keyport (go slow here); then on into Liberty Bay. The public docks are far up the bay on the right. Very good moorage with power and water.

Day 3 In Poulsbo. Explore second hand shops, Sluys Bakery, and enjoy the restaurants. All amenities are close to the dock. Neat!

Day 4 To Port Orchard. Marian entrance is located at the west end, then double back inside of the breakwater and go back as close to shore as possible. There are many antique malls and shops. (When leaving Port Orchard, a trip around the harbor is a must, to see what is going on over at the Bremerton side. Don't get too close): they will intercept you!)

Day 5 To Tacoma. We'll go down Clove's Passage to Tacoma, where there is moorage. Tacoma Yacht Club is on the West Side of the bay. If you wish to go into Tacoma, you may go by taxicab. (When leaving Tacoma, consider a side trip to Gig Harbor. This is a busy little bay with lots of marine-related businesses along the shore. This used to be the home of a very large fishing fleet. Moorage is very tight and dropping your "hook" may be the best way of getting ashore.)

Day 6 To Olympia. Follow the chart north to Budd Inlet, remembering the current through the narrows. Look for the dark and gloomy McNeil Island Prison to your starboard as you go by. In Olympia, go up to the south end of Percival's dock and look for moorage, right in downtown Olympia! There are many curio, book, and antique shops. The Capital complex and the Washington State Museum are within walking distance, and offer a great educational and cultural treat.

Day 7 Quarter Master Harbor. We head north to this destination; or you may wish to detour through Hammersley Inlet to Oakland Bay to see what Shelton looks like; there is supposed to be a public float, but we have never been able to locate it. Even so, the six-mile trip is worth it just to see the inlet. One needs to keep an eye on the chart in and out, as there are shoals here and there. It is a lovely area and well worth taking the extra time. (The N. end of Quarter Master Harbor offers good protection for an overnight raft-up. A stack at Ruston, is a good locator.)

Day 8 Seattle. We go north to our next destination. On the way, smaller boats may want to stop and check out Blake Island with its very protected moorage to see the Indian Long House. Blake Island's proximity to Seattle creates a problem, with limited moorage. Try the locks into Lakes Union & Washington if you wish; just be sure to have two 40+ lines ready with eyes in one end, your fenders out, and tell the lock tenders that you're first-timers! Note Elliott Bay: it's fun to "bum boat" around from Alki Point to West Point looking at all the sights. To visit Seattle, moor at Shilshole's visitor's docks or the Elliot Bay Marina and catch a cab or bus.

Day 9 Port Ludlow. Site of the old Port Ludlow Sawmill, operated by Pope and Talbott. To get to the moorage, you round Burner Point, and get directions at the gas dock. Port Ludlow, a resort, has a very nice dining room and usually plenty of moorage "for hire".

Day 10 Port Townsend. Pass Mats Bay through the Port Townsend Canal, to Pt. Hudson in downtown Port Townsend. Lots of bookstores, antique shops, and vintage car parts can be found here! The old homes are a real draw, and many are open for tours. A very historical community in our young state of Washington.

Day 11 LaConner. Leaving Port Townsend, time your arrival at Deception Pass so that it will be slack, giving you a smooth ride under the bridge. Then around to the south, to pick up the range (follow the charts carefully) and proceed to LaConner along the Swinomish Slough. There are a number of moorages at LaConner; prepare to deal with the current: it moves along considerably unless near slack. Try the Calico Cafe for breakfast; investigate the gourmet-quality Black Swan for dinner; and browse all the shops.

Day 12 Chuckanut Bay. See above for details. Our last night out should be a quiet and serene one!

Day 13 Back to Bellingham!

Top of Document
Cruising Tips
Bellingham Area Destinations
Destinations in nearby BC
Northern Nights Cruise
Southern Lights Cruise

All rights reserved. For permission to copy, contact Joe Coons.